What's the best way to hook everything up? We know we'll need the power company to hook it up at the pole, that line was laid two years ago.
I learned to drive a stick on a 47 ford tractor
. The house i grew up in was built in 1887. hand hewn beams, field stone foundation. i remember helping my dad replace the roof we had to drill pilot holes for the nails because the wood was so hard the nails bent.
As far as the wiring. I would suggest talking to an electrician ahead of time so that you are working with him and keeping his part easy. jobs tend to go better when everyone is on the same page. Keep in mind things you may want to add, like updating your lighting. If you are taking the time to pull the wire yourself it may also be a good time to run cat 5 network cable, or clean up your TV cable. just don't run the cat 5 or TV cable to close to the electrical. electricity produces a magnetic field and will interfere with the data cable. Before you talk to the electricians get a plan together of what you want and where, and how invasive are you willing to be in the installation. Keep in mind a house as old as yours probably has plaster walls, not drywall. You can still hang drywall, just be prepared for the mess. Figure out what you want to power and get a circuit amperage, then a whole house amperage. If you are willing to take down drywall you could replace the wire and install the new boxes without ever disconnecting the existing power. I would suggest making a general plan, open up the walls and see what you have, talk to electricians, finalize the plan, place your boxes, run your wire back to where the electrician wants to put the new service panel. make sure you leave enough slack for him to work with. I would suggest letting the electrician connect the wiring to the panell as well as the panel instalation.
is your house 1 story or 2?
load load load
Some code and rules of thumb to keep in mind. Remember I live in Michigan. Even though Michigan has pretty tough building codes, your state, or city may have more strict codes than we do. So check your local code before starting work.
30 amp circuits use 10 gauge wire
20 amp circuits use 12 gauge wire
15 amp circuits use 14 gauge wire
don't remove more than 25% width of the material in a load bearing stud.(no bigger than a 7/8" hole through a 2x4)
no more than 40% in a non load bearing stud
wires should be secured with insulated staples
wires should be a bit loose, not pulled tight. not sloppy either
all wire connections must be accessable, and in a junction box. no boxes behind drywall.
make sure wires are protected from nails and screws by using metal plates
label the wires at the panel to make the final connection easier. and for labeling circuits on the panel door
if you have anyother questions, or i didn't cover something feel free to ask.
My father is a licensed mason, I have been working with him all my life. I never needed a summer job since I worked with him.
Brick, Block, stucco, cement all fall under the stuff I can do. I prefer finishing concrete (as it pays more). I could offer advice but it could get rather technical.
Glad you posted, I've worked with concrete, but just pouring pads not finishing. I may need some advice when it comes time to level my basement floor. There is a consistant dip in the center where the floor drain is, but too much to use self leveler. So i will need to pour a substantial amount of new concrete to have a smooth level finish. will i need some sort of bonding agent between the existing concrete and the new, should i scuff the old. Any other advice would be appreciated.