WH40000 - what's your opinion?

Started by Beorning, August 09, 2014, 03:58:53 PM

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Beorning

Ooooh, these are some beautiful minis, eBadger! Thank you for sharing them and for your analysis.

Quote from: eBadger on August 04, 2015, 06:28:21 PM
When using washes, you have to take into account the shading when choosing your base color: pick something a bit brighter than you want to end with.

Good point, but I have one another problem with washes: don't they make everything look dirty and very matte? I just don't like the look of the colours treated with a wash, so I end up repainting most of the minis after washing...

BTW. Something I noticed yesterday: I painted my Sister's gun with Gory Red. Then, I applied black wash. Then, I re-painted most of the gun with Gory Red... but, this time around, Gory Red came out a bit darker? Is it possible that the wash under the second layer made it look different than the first one (which was painted over a layer of white primer)?

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I'm not sure exactly what went wrong there, but my initial impression is that the wash was put on too thin/dried too quickly.  It doesn't look like it pooled much at all. 

Actually, it was the other way around. The wash gathered in one spot and I had trouble spreading it over the hair. There *is* one spot on the hair where the shading is visible, but it didn't came out on the photos...

(BTW. Any advice on photographing minis? That Wych really looks better in real life. Some of the colours and details just didn't photograph...)

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So, back to your stuff: use washes, but plan for them.  Your clothing didn't shade well because there's too little contrast between the wash and the paint color; that's fine if you're adding more highlights, not so good if you aren't. 

I admit I don't know what else I could do here? The colour was dark red. The wash was black. There should be a plenty of contrast there...

That goes for the rest of your colors, too: you need another color in your palette that will work with your red to make easily identifiable shapes, rather than a formless monotone (a brighter gold rather than a bronze?  switch to a different hair color?)

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As mentioned, thin your paints just a bit.  They will flow better, requiring less pressure on the brush and therefore a sharper point and better control and detail. 

The best description I've seen is to try for the consistency of milk.  It should hold some form, but should flow readily and easily over the surface.  Watercolor is bad.

And post the new mini!!!

Okay, I'll try thinning the paints a bit more next time. BTW. Is it possible that I should also thin my primer? Maybe I'm putting on too much of it and that's why the minis look so rough and goopy?

I'll post the new mini later today, when I glue it together :) I admit that I'm quite satisfied with it... it looks good, at least in relation to my skills.

eBadger

#1501
Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AMGood point, but I have one another problem with washes: don't they make everything look dirty and very matte? I just don't like the look of the colours treated with a wash, so I end up repainting most of the minis after washing...

It depends on which washes you use.  A brown wash is a popular method of giving a weathered, slightly dirty look to models; hence the overwhelming popularity, once upon a time, of the old GW Devlan Mud (now Agrax Earthshade).  It can certainly be used for that: splash a bit onto your pristine silver armor and you can give a subtle dinginess with almost no effort. 

I'm not a fan.  I prefer crisp, clean, bright models rather than battle damage/mud/rugged ones.  I don't default to brown washes, but instead match the wash to the paint color; this allows the detail to show up, but avoids a dirty look. 



I played around with this guy a bit; the coat is GW deathworld green, devlan mud wash, GW (nurgle green?) dry brush; it gives it (hopefully) the look of an old piece of clothing, clean but heavily worn and stained.  But I used the same wash on the pack and rope, but avoided any splotchy discoloration and the pack looks like a brand new item he's taking out for the first time.  Had I wanted the coat to look new as well, I would have used a black wash with a tiny bit of green paint (or a green wash with a bit of black) to deepen the colors rather than adding a new color.  A bit of green on the pack, on the other hand, would have given it a slightly moldy look.   

As far as matte v. gloss, that's entirely the brand of wash you use.  Compare Sorscha's brown coat edge to Eiryss' cloak:





Both of those finishes are from the wash.  It doesn't really matter, though; once you're done, you ought to be clear coating everything and that will create it's own finish. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AMBTW. Something I noticed yesterday: I painted my Sister's gun with Gory Red. Then, I applied black wash. Then, I re-painted most of the gun with Gory Red... but, this time around, Gory Red came out a bit darker? Is it possible that the wash under the second layer made it look different than the first one (which was painted over a layer of white primer)?

Reds are usually pretty translucent; it takes several coats to completely obscure what's beneath, and it's why I always paint them over white.  So yes, painting over a darker color, or multiple coats, will make it darker. 

If you're using Vallejo gory red, that's the mid-tone on Sorscha and Zerkova.  A lovely color, but not bright. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AM(BTW. Any advice on photographing minis? That Wych really looks better in real life. Some of the colours and details just didn't photograph...)

Ideally, outside on a slightly overcast day.  Otherwise, lots of light from multiple sources, preferably white/daylight bulbs rather than standard yellow ones.  Take your mini around the house and snap a few photos to find whats the best spot.  You can make a light box pretty easily.  White isn't a good background (most auto modes will try to dim everything to adjust for the brightness).  Don't try to get super close or zoom in all the way; find a good focus and crop later if needed. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AMI admit I don't know what else I could do here? The colour was dark red. The wash was black. There should be a plenty of contrast there...

Dark red and dark wash means no contrast.  Start with a red that's brighter than you want.  Also, break up the red with something else bright. 





Both of those reds are painted the same way, with the same color and wash.  The warjack looks bright because smaller sections of color are offset by the white.  The sleigh looks dark and dulle, and the detail of the ridges and rivets is lost, because I hadn't yet applied anything to break it up (and never really did much, ran into a deadline and free commissions get you what you pay for.... ;) )

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AMOkay, I'll try thinning the paints a bit more next time. BTW. Is it possible that I should also thin my primer? Maybe I'm putting on too much of it and that's why the minis look so rough and goopy?

Don't thin primer.  But what are you using?  Not all are created equal; both GW and P3 make nice ones that will coat well without being thick.  Also don't apply too much: give the model a nice frosting, don't paint it. A great write up here

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 08:29:52 AMI'll post the new mini later today, when I glue it together :) I admit that I'm quite satisfied with it... it looks good, at least in relation to my skills.

Never feel bad for liking your own models, yours is the only opinion that counts!  And Improvement takes time; keep in mind that I started painting models over 20 years ago. 

Beorning

Quote from: eBadger on August 05, 2015, 11:02:41 AM
It depends on which washes you use.  A brown wash is a popular method of giving a weathered, slightly dirty look to models; hence the overwhelming popularity, once upon a time, of the old GW Devlan Mud (now Agrax Earthshade).  It can certainly be used for that: splash a bit onto your pristine silver armor and you can give a subtle dinginess with almost no effort. 

I'm not a fan.  I prefer crisp, clean, bright models rather than battle damage/mud/rugged ones.  I don't default to brown washes, but instead match the wash to the paint color; this allows the detail to show up, but avoids a dirty look. 

I like clean-looking models, too! So, if I understand you correctly - I should use red wash to shade reds, blue wash to shade blues etc.? What's the use of black wash, then?

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Both of those finishes are from the wash.  It doesn't really matter, though; once you're done, you ought to be clear coating everything and that will create it's own finish. 

Argh! What's clear-coating?

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Don't thin primer.  But what are you using?  Not all are created equal; both GW and P3 make nice ones that will coat well without being thick.  Also don't apply too much: give the model a nice frosting, don't paint it. A great write up here

Please define "frosting" :)

Anyway... here's the yesterday's Sister:







As I mentioned, the method was that I painted almost everything, then applied a lot of wash, then repainted most of the figure to make it look bright. This time, I didn't destroy too much of the shading, so I think the mini looks better than the last one. Although it still does look a little dirty... Sometimes I wonder if all that shading is actually worth it.

Oniya

Clear-coat is a spray-on product that puts a thin layer of transparent sealant on the mini to keep paint from wearing off over time.  It also tends to impart a slight gloss, although I think there's a version for matte finishes.
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eBadger

#1504
Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 01:15:23 PM
I like clean-looking models, too! So, if I understand you correctly - I should use red wash to shade reds, blue wash to shade blues etc.? What's the use of black wash, then?

Not always the same, no; basically, just test a bit and see what works (if you don't have old minis lying around, buy a package of green army men or something, prime the guys up and test out ideas).  I wash some reds and yellows with brown, and use black a ton, only mixing in color if I feel the difference in shading is too stark (or I'll just thin it down so it doesn't coat so heavily).  Colored inks/washes aren't necessarily dark enough (almost never are, in my experience) so you'll want black just for mixing.  It's also useful for metallics (I wash silvers with black, golds with brown) - the P3 black wash is named Armor Wash.  Also, when you get into the advanced stuff you'll discover that black is usually mostly not black (image not mine). 



The purple was done with a 50/50 water/armor wash mix, which I just painted into the lows to avoid dulling the whole cape.  Colored inks are usually intended more for adding or intensifying color (all the P3 reds are very orange-y, because they are designed to be finished with an application of red ink). 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 01:15:23 PMArgh! What's clear-coating?

Clear coating just refers to finishing a model with a protective layer of clear paint.  It seals the acrylics and prevents chipping, wearing off, and peeling, and also eliminates the gloss finish some paints have.  I use 2-3 coats of Krylon Clear Flat:



...but the pros seem to all love Testors Dullcote (which is super matte, more expensive and harder to find).  If you have something you DO want glossy (a gem or piece of glass, for instance) it can be touched up with clear nail polish. 

Do be aware that clear coat doesn't do well in high humidity.  Always test on something before spraying your models, to avoid discoloration. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 01:15:23 PMPlease define "frosting" :)

Read that linked article on priming ;)

"Have you ever assembled a model on a black gaming base and then applied so much primer to it that it's completely white and there is no hint of a black gaming base on the model anymore, just a white disk? Yeah, you've WAY over primed your model.

...What is considered priming properly, then? A very light dusting of primer. Even for tabletop models I don't worry about covering every little nook and cranny on a model.

...I apply until I can see primer on most of the model, not worrying if I see some metal through the primer in those deepest recesses."

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 01:15:23 PMAs I mentioned, the method was that I painted almost everything, then applied a lot of wash, then repainted most of the figure to make it look bright. This time, I didn't destroy too much of the shading, so I think the mini looks better than the last one. Although it still does look a little dirty... Sometimes I wonder if all that shading is actually worth it.

Your Sister is a huge leap forward, nicely done!!!  You have some defined lines on the gun, and her armor detail is enhanced by the black spaces. 

For the next one try applying less wash (or better, water it down a bit) so it doesn't get so dark, then thin down your paint a little and apply it to about half of the red space.  That will preserve some mid tones and make it look faded rather than lined. 

Beorning

Quote from: eBadger on August 05, 2015, 05:42:42 PM
Not always the same, no; basically, just test a bit and see what works (if you don't have old minis lying around, buy a package of green army men or something, prime the guys up and test out ideas).  I wash some reds and yellows with brown, and use black a ton, only mixing in color if I feel the difference in shading is too stark (or I'll just thin it down so it doesn't coat so heavily).  Colored inks/washes aren't necessarily dark enough (almost never are, in my experience) so you'll want black just for mixing.  It's also useful for metallics (I wash silvers with black, golds with brown) - the P3 black wash is named Armor Wash.

Hm. So, if I was to shade some red hair (like that of my Wych's), what should I use? Red wash, black wash, a mix of the two? What about the problem with black wash causing the hair to look dirty?

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Read that linked article on priming ;)

"Have you ever assembled a model on a black gaming base and then applied so much primer to it that it's completely white and there is no hint of a black gaming base on the model anymore, just a white disk? Yeah, you've WAY over primed your model.

...What is considered priming properly, then? A very light dusting of primer. Even for tabletop models I don't worry about covering every little nook and cranny on a model.

...I apply until I can see primer on most of the model, not worrying if I see some metal through the primer in those deepest recesses."

I will :) I apply the primer with a brush and I really keep wondering how much of the stuff I should use...

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Your Sister is a huge leap forward, nicely done!!!  You have some defined lines on the gun, and her armor detail is enhanced by the black spaces. 

Isn't there too much of the black, though? For me, she looks like she had tons of mud stuck in all these recesses...

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For the next one try applying less wash (or better, water it down a bit) so it doesn't get so dark, then thin down your paint a little and apply it to about half of the red space.  That will preserve some mid tones and make it look faded rather than lined.

I'll try to do so :)

I wonder what to do with the Wyches, though? They don't have as many obvious recesses as the Sisters - most of their clothes are smooth bodysuits. How do you shade that?

BTW. As you can see, the Sister's is still looking rough, not smooth. Do you think it's because of non-thinned paint?

Thorne

Hard to say, really - I do like both your new minis, I think they're coming along well. You're really improving - and no, I'm not just saying that. ;p
I don't really think about what I'm doing very much - I poke it until it looks right. Which is not the easiest technique to explain.

But, eh. Progress pics! Because I can do that. My workspace is messy. Try to ignore that. <.<

So, remember that gnoll I was modifying? I couldn't get the wings to work the way I wanted, so I scrapped that bit, but I figure I'll finish her off for the halibut.
I'm at the 'slap paint on at random' stage here, and since I was going to paint a white gnoll (... yah, there was a reason for that) and she's wearing metal armor, I just based everything Noir Black (Reaper). Reaper's paints are flat-finish, which I like just fine for this stage.
I'll work up the fur with grey and white (because white fur isn't really white, usually - it's transparent over black skin. That's how you get white horses with black noses), to give it depth, and the armor with metallic. The only thing you're not seeing is her shield, which I have primed, but not painted.


And, for something completely different .. uh. Mostly. I'm painting a minotaur for a friend. He wants a spotted brown-and-white minotaur (and here's me, praying I won't be talking to 'Bessie' in character, because, really dude).
Again, Reaper - Mahogany Brown for the body. Peacock Green for the kilt (both of which I'm going to dry-brush lighter), and more Noir Black for the metal and base.


For both of these, I do tend to start at the bottom and work my way up - skin first. Because I tend to do metallic and whites more or less the same, I did Ms. Gnoll all in black, pretty much.
The minotaur got his skin first, then the kilt. I'll probably start his horns in a lighter brown - Tanned Leather, maybe.

Annd.. the dragon there in the background, that's something I'm working on for the GM. I have to glue one of her horns back on. >.>
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eBadger

#1507
Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 06:57:39 PM
Hm. So, if I was to shade some red hair (like that of my Wych's), what should I use? Red wash, black wash, a mix of the two? What about the problem with black wash causing the hair to look dirty?

Black tends to look more like shadows, less like dirt.  However, caucasian hair tends to include brown, including red hair.  One tool for coming up with color combos is to find a picture and sample the different sections. 



As you see, even for this - which is definitely pushing the border of believably real - there's mostly browns, with only a mid tone that's really red. 



These are just GC bloody red, GW agrax earthshade, and a touch up of P3 red ink mostly because my clear coat frosted a bit.  They were a quick and dirty duo, with hair that I wanted a fake red - everything else on them is earth tone, and they needed to tie into a primarily red force (see Sorscha and Zerkova above).  If I wanted more realistic, I would have mixed a touch of light brown into the red, used a thinner Agrax wash (since there would have already been some brown) and highlighted with a tan/yellow.

I haven't painted much red hair, though.  Dhi, any suggestions you could provide?

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 06:57:39 PMI will :) I apply the primer with a brush and I really keep wondering how much of the stuff I should use...

BTW. As you can see, the Sister's is still looking rough, not smooth. Do you think it's because of non-thinned paint?

I've never used brush on primer.  Obviously some do, and it's certainly a thing, but I've been warned off of it for exactly that reason: your brush is probably going to put it on too thick. 



I'm not familiar with GW models these days (my sisters of battle are from the mid 90s...) but the lumpy roundness instead of crisp details indicates to me that the paint is way too thick.  If you're able, grab a spray primer and try it out.  Some WIP pictures (before primer, after, after paint) would also help us see what's going on.  Obscuring detail is going to make washes less effective, though, since there won't be all those nice crisp crevices to pool in. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 06:57:39 PMIsn't there too much of the black, though? For me, she looks like she had tons of mud stuck in all these recesses...

Hmm...the black doesn't read as mud to me at all.  Again, keep in mind what real armor will look like:



Notice how dark shadow outlines and defines almost every plate, and tarnish and oil bring out all the filigree.  Our mind reads it as solid silver, but without the shades it would look flat and formless. 

Quote from: Beorning on August 05, 2015, 06:57:39 PMI wonder what to do with the Wyches, though? They don't have as many obvious recesses as the Sisters - most of their clothes are smooth bodysuits. How do you shade that?

That's where two brush blending comes into play, but not something I'd start you on now.  I'm frankly not really impressed with the sculpts; they look boring, with large plain surfaces and few variations in texture/material.  As I've mentioned, I would switch the bronze metal for a bright gold or silver and change either the hair or clothing color to something that isn't red.  Left to my druthers, I would add an accent color and make the costume quartered/particolor like this (model not mine):



Thorne, the models are looking nice; I like the gnoll model!  And looking forward to seeing how you pull off Bessie's spots. 

I always have a pile of WIP stuff, but right now I'm trying to finish up some dragons to make my Legion force playable.  I think I've settled on a color scheme, but I need to finish prepping the models: some need to be magnetized, while most of the others need their heads snipped off and swapped out for a more classic draconic look rather than alien dragons. 

Dhi

Hey Beorning, would you try putting some of your metallic paint on a palette, thinning it with an equal amount of water, and stirring it up with a toothpick or brush handle or something where you can identify clumps? If it does clump with that much water, then probably your metallics are just hardening from air exposure and need to be replaced. The rest of your colors don't seem to have this coarseness that's bothering you, so I do not think it's a primer issue.

I like the messy workspaces, the painting notes and the works in progress, Thorne. Don't disparage experimenting with your paint, that's how we get better. Anne Foerster practices a technique called wet blending which probably qualifies as slapping paint on at random, but there is absolutely a personality to it that can't be replicated by something like layering. Anne is the painter I look up to the most, and one bit of advice she gives is to find some small way to push yourself each time you paint. You seem to think about these things the way I do and the way Anne does, and if you ask me that is not a bad thing at all.

Beorning

Once again, thanks for all the advice, guys! And Thorne, thanks for the kind words - I do hope that I am improving :)

Regarding the primer issue - thankfully, I do happen to have a picture of the Wych taken after the primer was applied. She looked like this:



So, what do you think?

When it comes to thinning the paints, the problem is that I am a... bit of a miser when it comes to paints. I can't afford to buy too many of them, so I don't really put significant amount of paint on the palette. Usually, it's just a drop or two, so that I don't end up wasting too much of the stuff. I'm not sure how to thin such small amounts of paints?

When it comes to the colours on the Wyches - I would prefer to stick to deep red body suits, as this colour fits the theme / backstory I worked out for that particular Cult :)) Also, blueish / blackish colours on the DE are kind of default and I don't want mine to be too unoriginal... What I plan on doing is giving the Wyches different hair colours (there would be blacks, whites, reds... maybe even blondes - are there any examples of blonde DE in the canon?), as well as armour colours (silvers, bronzes, tins...). I certainly don't want all of the Wyches look the same.

Dhi

When looking at your Wych paint job and what the issue might have been, I was looking at fine details like the hair furrows at the scalp. In some of the photos those details had been smoothed over. Looking at the same areas on your primer picture, those details are not covered up. I think this confirms that the thickness of your paint is obscuring some detail. Learning to thin down paints is something every beginning painter goes through, that's why it's so often touted as advice. My early paint jobs were way too thick as well, and I didn't realize how much detail I was obscuring until I started taking pictures.

In order to thin down paint some artists will get some water on their brush and mix it in. I don't like to take risks like that with my Kolinsky brushes. What I'll do is put down a drop or two of paint, and dip the tip of my little finger in the water. If it's a thick paint like Vallejo, I put the water drop directly on the paint. If it's something already thin, like Reaper Master Series, then I'll put the water drop down on the palette and scoop a bit over. This is ultimately something you have to get a feel for.

Regarding red hair, I've never done a real cherry red color for hair, but I'm interested to try it now. I did a lot of ginger red hair for my fire giants, and that was a fiery orange base, drab red and brown ink in the shadows, and highlights coming up to golden yellow. In hindsight, I should have gone deeper with the shadows. Hair, especially the supermodel hair, is rich in color. Mixing in some other hues like brown will help to bring it to life. You want the brown to look like it's a shade of your red, and one way to do that is to mix in a bit of your base color to your shadow and highlight colors.

Reaper makes a color triad called the auburn hair triad.

I've never used it for actual hair, but it's a super close match to eBadger's color swatch and some of my favorite colors for cherry wood and warm leathers. You could make them more red by mixing a bit of your Vallejo red in, or going back over the finished product with a glaze of red ink.

A glaze is like a filter put on over a color once it's been shaded and highlighted. About 12 parts water to 1 part paint should do it. Liquitex also makes a glaze medium I'd recommend, and it's either this or straight matte medium which goes into P3's Mixing Medium product. When you apply a glaze you shouldn't be able to see it at first, but after a few coats everything will start to take that uniform hue, highlight, base, and shadow alike. Ink is especially great for glazes because the pigment is so tiny.

Thorne

Red hair? Brr.. I've tried it with browns and orange, and it didn't work so well - red hair is a real pain in the butt to paint. :/
I have a new set to try it with - that dark mahogany, and a light rust red for highlights. We'll see how that goes.

I am a little more careful with the brush-on primer than I am with the spray, even though the one I have (one of Reaper's) is pretty thin. I usually prefer a spray primer, honestly. ^^;

Progress! Ms. Gnoll, because she'd been the easier to paint right now..

First coat of grey - using a grey with a blue undertone - think it's Reaper's Concrete Grey.


And, white - I used P3's Morrow White for this - it's a good lot thicker, which means I can use it for a wash, so there won't be /quite/ so much exposed black. If I put a drop or so of grey in, it won't be /quite/ so stark.

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Beorning

Thorne, only now I noticed: that Gnoll has breasts?

Dhi, thanks for the advice on thinning the paints :)

Guys, your kind word and advice gave me a boost, so I primed two more minis today (another Wych and a Sister with heavy flamer - which is one really big, complicated contraption that might be fun to paint). I'm eager to try out all of the advice you've given me :)

arkhos

Quote from: Beorning on August 06, 2015, 04:23:58 PM
Guys, your kind word and advice gave me a boost, so I primed two more minis today (another Wych and a Sister with heavy flamer - which is one really big, complicated contraption that might be fun to paint). I'm eager to try out all of the advice you've given me :)

Tons of good advice here, so nothing really to add except this: you won't get better without practicing the things you read about. So prime those minis and get those brushes working! :)

-ark
Wheels within wheels in a spiral array, a pattern so grand and complex; Time after time we lose sight of the way, our causes can't see their effects.

eBadger

Quote from: Dhi on August 06, 2015, 06:21:21 AMReaper makes a color triad called the auburn hair triad.

That looks fabulous, will have to pick them up! 

And we need more pics of models (should we be starting a new thread for this?) - I just assembled stuff this weekend and worked on a head swap for a legion dragon; I'll post pics later but halfway through atm, need to sculpt some lips and snout. 

Dhi

This is the most recent thing I finished, a Gorax.

I started making heavy use of Liquitex glaze medium here for some smooth blends on the muscles. Beefy dude muscles are something I've always struggled with, it takes such a subtle transition from deep shadow to bright highlight for the piece not to look cell shaded to me. And a cell shaded look used to be something I was okay with, but I've been trying to work toward those photogenic display pieces that're more elaborate than they first appear, rather than less.

There's a podcast I listen to while painting called Fantasy Fiction, and about the same time they were doing stories themed around yeti. Mine's supposed to be a wendigo, but they look alike, don't they? I thought that was cool.


My partner liked this gorgon I painted from the Bones II line. I was trying out some rust effects, a fiery glow, and lapis lazuli tiles building on what I learned trying to paint marble. I had wanted to give him a glowing magmatic butthole to match his eyes and mouth, but chickened out. I always regret getting too explicit.


D.W.'s base was I think the first thing I crafted out of Sculpey. I wanted him to be perched on a hawk's head gargoyle Darkwing style, but my sculpting skills are unfortunately crude.


This week I received some zen garden basing materials from Wyrd Miniatures and have been drilling and pinning to hold all the pewter together. I also picked up a new pot of gesso, which I use to prime metals and resins, so no more worrying about clumpyness from the old pot. That was one of the things keeping me from assembling my Kingdom Death minis. Now I have nothing to blame but myself if I mess them up, and that's twice as intimidating.

I also opened up a new package of green stuff epoxy to fill some gaps. This green stuff was manufactured by Citadel, and I noticed that the package is not resealable. I can put them in another resealable container, and I'm going to have to, because epoxy does not stay malleable with air circulation. My Citadel paints all dried out very quickly, inside of a few months, due to the design of those containers. I haven't tried the newer flip-top pots. Does anyone else use them?

Thorne

Hee! Darkwing Duck.. ^^
Dhi, your Wendigo/Yeti looks like a werewolf to me, but I really like the paintjob, all the same. Where'd you find him?

So, my present projects, Bessie and Ms. Whitegnoll:



As you can see, I had some fun with the spotz. ^^;
Ms. Whitegnoll has now her armor - I'm all pleased with myself, I got a good mix for Golarion Adamantine (which is described as being a dull purplish colour.. whaat) (a good squidge of Reaper Adamantine Black, a couple of drops of Imperial Purple (also Reaper) and a blob of P3 Quicksilver), and now all I need is to go after it with the inks and start doing a bit of shading for depth. And battle-damage.

I am generally displeased with Citadel paints - their pots are stupid, and the last one I managed to pick up was almost dead right out of the gate. Congealed and /gluey/. Rassenfrassen cheap *language*.... I added a little water and mixed the hell out of it, and I /think/ it will salvage. But for how long.. *grumble* And it was the only shade of dull bronze I could find. I'm displeased.
Writer of horrors, artist of mayhem.

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Dhi

Gorax is a warbeast used by my Hordes faction, Circle Orboros. He's pretty indispensable for enhancing the already high melee power of our werewolves, so just about every Circle player has one.

Bessie's spots are perfect! How do you feel about Whitegnoll's coat? When you mentioned your color choices I was afraid you might end up with something that hits the eye as grey rather than white, but it looks white from what I can see.

Thorne

I'm actually pretty pleased with Ms. Whitegnoll's coat - I need to do a little touching up - the shadows are a little /too/ deep-black, and I need to fix that, but overall, I am really happy with the way she's coming out.

Hm. I was looking at some of the Hordes stuff for modifying for D&D (.. pretty sure I'm not the only one who's thought about that, and I'm equally certain it goes both ways!). I really like his general 'look' - if I need more werewolves for something, or a Werewolf lord, maybe I'll see if my FLGS has one. Or hit the much-more-local GS shop... that might be fun in the 'shut up, yes, I'm a woman, yes, I am looking for a mini, no, I don't play THIS game, yes I paint go away' kind of sense... >.>

I was looking at a wholly different mini in that general line .. female, with batwings. Might have made a fantastic succubus, if I knew which one it was. I was going to ask, but by the time I had a free moment, they'd finished and packed up and gone. :/
Writer of horrors, artist of mayhem.

Currently available, frequently lurking.
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Ideas and inspirations: small groups

Oniya

#1519
Quote from: Thorne on August 12, 2015, 01:19:06 AM
I'm actually pretty pleased with Ms. Whitegnoll's coat - I need to do a little touching up - the shadows are a little /too/ deep-black, and I need to fix that, but overall, I am really happy with the way she's coming out.

Hm. I was looking at some of the Hordes stuff for modifying for D&D (.. pretty sure I'm not the only one who's thought about that, and I'm equally certain it goes both ways!). I really like his general 'look' - if I need more werewolves for something, or a Werewolf lord, maybe I'll see if my FLGS has one. Or hit the much-more-local GS shop... that might be fun in the 'shut up, yes, I'm a woman, yes, I am looking for a mini, no, I don't play THIS game, yes I paint go away' kind of sense... >.>

I was looking at a wholly different mini in that general line .. female, with batwings. Might have made a fantastic succubus, if I knew which one it was. I was going to ask, but by the time I had a free moment, they'd finished and packed up and gone. :/

http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/legion-of-everblight/warlocks/absylonia-daughter-of-everblight  ?

Or possibly http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/legion-of-everblight/solos/succubus  ?
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eBadger

Nicely done gorax, not a model I usually see getting compliments! 

Also LOL at magmatic butthole. 

Thorne, if you want werewolves then Orboros is definitely the right place to look.





For a succubus, Abby would be awesome, or this if you wanted a smaller model:


Beorning

Okay, seeing that we're posting more and more of non-WH40K related stuff, I'm making an executive decision and moving our general mini-related discussion here!

Xanatos

#1522
Quote from: TheGlyphstone on September 14, 2014, 05:44:58 PM
Everyone is fanatical to some degree or another, but Sisters are probably near the top. Their fluff about marching into battle singing hymns aside, they are the only faction whose fanaticism is powerful enough to give them magical superpowers via Acts of Faith.


Could someone elaborate on how this works exactly? Like Beorning, I find the Sisters of Battle the most interesting faction. Thus, I am intrigued. Nothing in their lore, that I read, even suggests they can do this - although the lore of the Living Saint does actually indirectly support this being possible.

Oh and I know that comment is old, but Beorning got me reading his thread. So, obviously, I am behind on all of the discussions already mentioned in months passed.

Beorning

#1523
Quote from: Xanatos on August 20, 2015, 07:39:08 PM
Could someone elaborate on how this works exactly? Like Beorning, I find the Sisters of Battle the most interesting faction. Thus, I am intrigued. Nothing in their lore, that I read, even suggests they can do this - although the lore of the Living Saint does actually indirectly support this being possible.

Yes, they can do this. To quote the AS Codex:

The Adepta Sororitas can draw upon the wellspring of their faith and call upon the Emperor to guide their actions. So does absolute belief in the Imperial Creed allow the Sisters of Battle to perform the seemingly impossible upon the battlefield.

Yet miracles are not to be relied upon as a matter of course. At the heart of the Imperial Creed is the belief that the divine Emperor relies on his followers to create their own salvation, but also that if the situation is sufficiently bleak, he will intervene to deliver his true servants.


How does this work, exactly? I don't know - maybe it's humanity's latent psychic potential being unlocked through great faith? Or, maybe, it's the collective power of many minds working. Or, maybe, the Emperor is really reaching out and helping them...

ChaoticSky

Officially the power of their faith is such that they are able to channel the divine might of the God Emperor to smite their enemies and heal tha faithful.

Unoffically their collective faith and will are strong enough to induce localized wrap effects despite the lack of psychic talent, not unlike chaos rituals.

Heretically, they probably have some number of latent (or delusional) psykers in their ranks with a natural talent for Theosophamy.

One of the above is true. Which one depends on the author and perspective.